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Pull Compensation Pull-compensation changes the width of the stitches to compensate for the "give" of a fabric. Adjusting the pull-compensation setting is useful if you are sewing on knit fabrics because these fabrics tend to stretch. Suppose that you have punched a design with a Satin border. You sew the sample and realize that there is a gap between the Satin border and Fill stitches. To solve this problem, you increase the pull- compensation. Some general rules: Circular shapes tend to pull in at the sides and pull out at the top and bottom during sewing. You need to compensate for this by increasing the pull-compensation so that your circular shape appears oval on-screen. When you sew the shape, due to the give of the fabric, the shape sews out perfectly round. Straight column stitches pull in during sewing. To compensate for this pulling, you need to increase the pull-compensation. Soft, thick fabrics such as fleece, terry-cloth, and sweaters tend to swallow the ends of column stitches, causing all satins to appear much thinner than normal. Increasing the pull compensation corrects this problem. Underlay Underlay is the stitches used to create a base for the topstitching. Underlay helps stabilize stretchy fabrics and tack down naps on fabrics such as terry cloth and corduroy. Underlay can also be used to create special effects such as a "lift" or raised areas in embroidery. Using underlay can create the effect of a richer looking embroidery. Underlay has many purposes and is a very critical element of a design, though its hidden by the top stitches. The Benefits of Underlay Underlay attaches the backing material to the garment to provide stabilization. Fabrics with uneven or patterned textures are harder to embroider than flat texture fabrics. This is because the embroidery has a tendency to follow the weave of the fabric. To counter this, running stitches can be placed along the edges of column (satin) stitches, so that the column stitches follow the running stitch underlay rather than the weave. (This is referred to as an edge- walk underlay.) Underlay supports the top stitches and provides a smooth foundation for them to rest upon. www.hsi.us care@hsi.us 200

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