Issue link: https://docs.hic.us/i/403552
The Cap Must Fit The Frame The second most common mistake made by Embroiderer's in regards to sewing caps, is trying to use a cap that doesn't match up to their machine's cap frame. Each frame has a built-in curvature that needs to mate with the horizontal curve of the cap to be sewn. If these two surfaces don't match-up, then the cap will have to be forced to fit onto the frame, which will lead to distortion of the sewing surface. And of course, the final result is poor sewing. One trick to test how well a cap lines up, is to remove the bill and place the curved portion (that used to attach to the crown) over the curved portion of the cap frame, then visually inspect the match-up. Of course, this destroys the cap, but better one than a dozen. Unfortunately, there is no great master list of which brands and styles work best for each machine brand. It comes through trial and error. And because the cap manufacturers, change cap specifications frequently, what works best this year may not do so next year. An Overview Of Center Seams The advent of the 6 panel or "center seam" cap brought with it a whole host of problems for Embroiderers to deal with. Instead of a smooth, unbroken surface for embellishment, these popular caps present a physical obstruction right in the middle of everything. In some cases the center seam is so thick and rigid, that it's nearly impossible to get a needle through it. But more often than not, it's the abrupt change in fabric thickness that causes problems. For the upper thread to mate with the bobbin thread, it's necessary for the needle to make a smooth transition through the fabric. When the needle encounters the edge of the seam, it may be forced to bend away from the vertical path of travel. In some cases the needle will deflect slightly, causing the upper thread to miss the bobbin hook pickup point, which results in a thread break. In other cases, there is enough needle deflection, that the thread rubs against the inside edge of the hole in the needle plate, which causes the thread to start shredding. In more severe cases, the needle deflects so much that the tip strikes the needle plate and causes the needle to break. Another contribution to thread breaks, is the upper thread rubbing along the edge of the seam as it passes by. Typically this edge is rough enough to cause the thread to begin shredding, which ultimately leads to a break. On some machines, the backside of the seam can cause another problem. It catches the edge of the needle plate during sewing and momentarily tugs on the cap. This can cause a number of problems including needle breaks, thread breaks, lose of registration, etc. www.hsi.us care@hsi.us 204