Issue link: https://docs.hic.us/i/403552
Minimizing The Affects Of Center Seams It may not be possible to mitigate all of the affects caused by the center seam, but there are a few things that can be done to minimize them. Proper Needle Selection Traditionally, the 75/11 ballpoint is the most commonly used needle in any shop. However, you should be using a sharp-point instead of the ball- point. Since they cut the fabric, sharp needles have less tendency to deflect. Also, you may need to switch to a larger needle such as the 80/12, to further reduce the tendency to deflect. Another needle option is to use a Teflon coated one, since it tends to pass through fabric a little more smoothly than the traditional stainless steel needle. Proper Backing Selection Heavy, stiff backing will reduce cap sewing problems, especially for the unconstructed styles. However, instead of using traditional nonwoven backing, consider using a sheet of standard copy paper, folded three times, like a business letter. This size will fit almost any cap front and adds more stability than the heaviest fabric backing. It also creates a smooth backside to the cap front and eliminates any snagging of the seam on the needle plate. When finished, it tears out just like standard tear-away backing. TIP – If you encounter needle breaks, stop the machine, fold a piece of paper as described, and slide it underneath the cap WARNING – Do not substitute the cardboard backing that is used to stiffen cap fronts during shipping. Due to its thickness, and lack of flexibility, prolonged use can adversely affect your presser foot height adjustment. Digitizing For Caps Even if you aren't a digitizer, you need to have an idea of the techniques that should be used, when possible, to improve the sewing process for cap logos. Typically, a logo will be punched differently for caps than for flats. Keep Size To A Minimum This begins with the order-taking process. Always strive to keep the logo at a minimal size. Make sure your Digitizer knows that the design is for a cap and also what type of cap. Digitize From The Inside Out When possible the design should be punched so that it sews from the center of the design outward. Of course not all logos lend themselves to this concept, but it should be applied when possible, especially when dealing with the center seamed caps. Digitize From The Bottom Up www.hsi.us care@hsi.us 205