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Needle Size Needle Size denotes the diameter of the blade or shaft. The size that you would select for a job is dependent upon the thread size as well as the thickness or stiffness of the fabric. In general, the larger the needle, the larger the eye. Thus thicker threads require a larger needle so that the thread can pass easily through the eye. To test the proper needle/thread combination, thread a loose needle with about 2 feet of the chosen thread. Alternately raise and lower each end of the thread, allowing the needle to slide back and forth. If the needle slides easily by its own weight, it is suitable for that thread size. As needles get larger in size, the diameter of the blade or shaft increases. The result is a stronger needle. For heavy, stiff fabrics, a larger size needle should be selected. For lightweight fabrics, a smaller needle can be used. There are systems used for indicating the needle size: the metric (European) system and the Singer (United States) system. The metric system size is determined by multiplying the diameter of the blade by 100. For example, a needle with a metric system size of 80 has a blade diameter of 0.8mm (0.8 X 100). The United States system arbitrarily applies a number to these measurements. The Metric Size System increases in increments of five, while the other system increases in increments of one. Usually both systems are reflected on the needle package. (70/10, 75/11, 80/12, etc.) Needle Points Needles are also characterized by the type of point used. Needles generally fall into one of three categories: Sharp, Ball, and Wedge. The sharp-point needle is preferred for tightly woven fabrics, such as denim, twill, towels, corduroy, etc. As the needle passes through the garment it may actually cut some of the fibers. However, since these types of fabrics are tightly woven, this is not generally a problem. The ball-point needle is preferred for knit goods, fleece and delicate fabrics. The cross fibers which constitute these materials are relatively far apart as compared to those in tightly woven fabrics. When a sharp-point needle encounters one of those fibers while penetrating the fabric, it cuts right through the fiber. This creates a hole in the fabric. The ball-point needle pushes aside the fiber it encounters in penetration and thereby avoids making a damaging hole in the fabric. www.hsi.us care@hic.us 179

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