Issue link: https://docs.hic.us/i/403552
Thread Tensions Tension is a critical element of embroidery because it affects the controlled flow of thread through the machines thread path and into the hook and loop area. The precision of that thread flow affects stitch formation and how it ultimately lays on the garment. Although you must adjust the upper thread tensions independently of the bobbin thread tensions, the two forces must work together in a delicate balance. Think of it as a tug-of-war game. If the upper thread tension is too great, it will pull the bobbin thread up through the garment, such that it is visible in the topstitching. On the other hand, if the bobbin tension is too tight, it will pull the upper thread down under the garment farther than normal, which will cause visible loops to form in the stitching. Both of these scenarios are undesirable. Setting Upper Thread Tension Setting proper thread tension is an integral part of the production process. Most Embroiderers use either a tension gauge (supplied by machine manufacturer) or a stitching process called the "Thirds Test". Begin the test by sewing out the letters XOH at about 1.5 inches high on a piece of fabric similar to the garment that will be sewn on. This selection of letters will test every direction of the machine's movement. Now turn the test swatch over and inspect the stitching on the underside. The backside of the letters should look as if it's divided into three equal parts. The outside edges should be the top thread and the center should be the bobbin thread. In other words, two-thirds of the stitches should be the top thread, while the other one-third is the bobbin thread. If you see too much top thread, increase the top thread tension. If you see too much bobbin thread, reduce the upper thread tension. While this test is very useful, it should only be considered as a starting point. The real test of tension, is a design that looks good and sews well. Too many Embroiderers spend an inordinate amount focusing on the under stitches, while paying little attention to the top stitches. The reality is that high quality stitching can be achieved without meeting the criteria of the "thirds test". In fact there may be times when almost no bobbin thread is showing in comparison to the upper thread. That's okay, as long as quality stitching has been achieved. The bottom-line is this: Always adjust tension with the sole purpose of controlling the quality of the top threads. There are several factors that affect thread tension, other than the tensioning knobs. These factors tend to vary the amount tension at different sewing speeds and may have to be compensated for by adjusting the tension to extremes. www.hsi.us care@hsi.us 190