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Available in a wide array of colors, Polyester thread is considered more durable than rayon and can withstand the harsh effects of bleaching. This makes it the ideal choice for garments that will undergo frequent washings, such as service uniforms that are worn in "dirty" environments. Like rayon, the standard weight for polyester is 40. Some manufacturers offer it in 30 weight as well. Because polyester is slightly stiffer than rayon, fine design details may need to be digitized differently when using it. Another characteristic of polyester thread is that it is more elastic than rayon. Thus, some stretching followed by rebounding can occur while sewing. The result is tiny loops forming on top of the embroidery design. Therefore, the thread tensions should be increased (on the machine) to control this problem. Metallic Metallic thread is a specialty thread that is used to create unique textures and special effects. There construction is very unique and they come in three different variations: core-wrapped, twisted and flat-foil. All of them have some sort of foil used in their construction. These foils are generally metalized polyester. Core-wrapped is the most common and gives the smoothest, most even shine. It's created by wrapping the foil around a core yarn of rayon, polyester or nylon, resulting in a round thread with a metallic covering. Metallic threads can be difficult to use. They are less flexible than rayon or polyester and do not flow easily. In fact, there is a tendency for them to "kink" while sewing which leads to thread breaks and "birdnests". Thus, when sewing with metallic thread, slower machine speeds are required along with the undivided attention of the machine operator. Once again, 40 weight is the most common size. However, even though it's approximately the same thickness as a 40 weight rayon, the density of an area sewn with metallic should be programmed 5 to 10 percent less than if rayon were being used. Cotton Rayon and polyester threads are known for their high luster finishes. Cotton on the other-hand has a low luster, almost dull finish. This can be quite useful for creating different looks. It is available in many weights, with 40 being the standard, but a limited number of colors. It withstands repeated washings very well, but not bleaching. Cotton is an excellent choice for sewing designs with high detail. It's also very useful for creating designs where the desire is for a low key, understated appearance. www.hsi.us care@hsi.us 187

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